ready to leave….

Sunday, Sept 24th…we are ready to leave beautiful Switzerland to spend three months on the isle of Zanzibar, Tanzania. The weather here is autumn cool and gently sunny.

Our bags are packed, we are taking two suitcases full of donated goods such a pens, pencils, bags, clothing and electronics to bring to the community.

Are we ready? We are excited and full of anticipation. We have prepared ourselves as much as we could. Even a few words of Swahili have been learned to greet people respectfully. We are thankful to Barbara Eggenberger to accompany us for the first ten days to introduce us to the community.

All else we shall find out, once there. We shall keep in touch!

Fredi and Bettina

Impressions and Views

Strolling from the Dalla-Dalla bus station towards the village of Nungwi, the street is lined with various shops which sell fruit, vegetables, bread, meat, rice and beans. The other shops are mostly work places of the specialists (fundis). A few weeks ago Fredi bought a slender tree trunk and carried it home on his shoulder to the smiles of all who saw him! He sawed off four legs and screwed them to the tabletop we had. The students who come to the house for extra help have had a comfortable surface to work on. The screws and nails can be bought at another shop where we also purchased a refill of gas for our cooking stove. The iron smith crafts the rather large doors of the bigger houses and several carpenters work on making furniture. Fredi had bought some wood to fabricate a large compass and ruler to use in his geometry class.

chairs for the nursery school comissioned by maishazanzibar.org

Then there are the little, local restaurants. Happy at “Muniras” cooks a lean and mean rice which can be combined with choices of beans, greens, octopus on coconut sauce or meat and veggies! Others fry doughnuts and serve it with bean soup for breakfast.

At “ Galaxy Hair Cutz” you can get your hair cut, shaved or braided. At the shop of the shoemaker one can choose from leather sandals, second hand sneakers or flip-flops cut from old motorbike tires. Several tailors sit outside and use sewing machines operated by their feet (remember grandmas’ machine?)

the tailor from Tanga working his magi

It works and we watched one very skilled man produce hundreds of school uniforms for the students whom maishazanzibar.org sponsors for the coming year.

In case you feel inclined to help a child here in Nungwi:

Maishazanzibar.org is looking for donors who are willing to support a child for six years in a row. The contribution of $60 per year pays for three uniforms, tuition and books. We very much recommend such a support and you commit on the website!

For quite a while now, we have observed a plot of land right behind the garden of our neighbor. A new house is being built in the traditional style. The walls and the gate got built first. Then a ground covering of coral rock pebbles got covered with cement. The walls of the foundation were made of sun dried bricks and cement. By the way, such foundations can be seen all over the village. We conclude that sometimes the money to build a house is available in installments. One year there is enough for the foundation to be continued at a later point. The corner stones of this new property were poured by hand. Then a huge truck with long wooden sticks navigated through the village and deposited the load at the described property. They then were placed horizontally over the brick walls. Planks of wood came next and before we knew it, a whole work crew of women in traditional Kanga dresses helped heaving up bucket after bucket of coral pebbles to be placed on top of the wooden floor. Then followed a layer of cement. The quality of such floors is not very sturdy and solid.

makuti are placed meticulously

Whenever it rains and the roof leaks, the floors leak as well… As this new house will be built in the traditional style, the next few trucks arrived with further supplies of wood and makuti (dried palm leaves) to build the roof. We observed also how industrious these fundis were working. From the onset of dawn until sunset these men work hard but always chat with each other, laugh and occasionally call out to someone passing by in the street. By now, the thaching has been going on for five days and without any safety precautions these men stand on slim tree stems and tie the makuti carefully with sisal string together. Quite an art, I must say.

 

a fishing dow is being built

Well, this is a little overview of some of the professions and trades we have observed here in Nungwi. This is surely not complete. The inhabitants live predominantly from their own agriculture (cows, goats, chicken, fruit and veggies) and from fishing. Some parents do not send their children to school as they see no need and can not afford it. Although the tuition is free up to seventh grade, the possibilities for these children to earn one day a decent salary in this region is small. Many of them drop out of school after a few years and become beach boys: youngsters who try to make a commission by selling excursions for diving and snorkeling tours or sell jewelry of seashells and souvenirs. Others learn the trade from their parents or family and rarely move out of the area. At the end of grade 7 there is the first exam. Those who pass can go on. Those who fail are out for good! This pattern is repeated after form two and four in secondary school. The student who fails at these levels is devastated, as he or she has no better options than if he had left in grade seven but the parents have spent the little money they have on the education of their child.

“A good education is the base that leads to a good profession, salary and a comfortable life” says the pro school propaganda here in Zanzibar. The reality is harsh and only a very few make it to the top.

reflections on the School in Ras Nungwi

Fredi teaching geometry outside...

Now, that we have spent almost two months at the school in Nungwi, we have gained much insight into  the everyday life of students, teachers and  administration. We have discovered connections and reasons for  certain situations which we had no clue about at the time of arrival. We have found out that it is imperative to stay for at least three months in such a school in order to have an impact of help and assistance. Students are kind, respectful, friendly and work hard to memorize and comprehend a huge amount of knowledge in this unfamiliar language: English. Kiswahili, Arabic and Religion are the only subjects not taught in English.

form one in English class.

 

The Tanzanian government is supposed to give each student a subject book in Secondary School. In my classes this is the case but in Bio or Math, two or three students share a book.  When it comes to exam preparation, there are one or two test samples for  Grade 10 with 150 students. We made sure that all students coming for extra help, received their copy to prepare themselves adequately for the exams.

form one

 

 

 

The whole school has 35 classrooms. Five of them have desks, benches or chairs for almost a whole class. In all others, the students sit, write and learn on the cement floor. Each classroom has a blackboard. Each teacher can take two sticks of chalk at the beginning of the day. The classrooms are open and have neither doors, nor windows. Sometimes people sleep there. Two secondary school buildings with a total of 10 classrooms were built and donated by the local Z Hotel in 2009. The window openings are protected with iron bars and the doors lockable. One of the classrooms is arranged as a laboratory where Chemistry is taught.When I sit on the little cement bench in front of the office and correct papers, almost once or twice every week, a guide comes by with a bunch of well-meaning tourist, mostly from Europe. Apparently rumor has spread, that the poor African School needs pens and pencils. They arrive with little packages of writing tools or a football to inflate, look around, smile and then go back to their luxury beach hotel on the coast. Giving and donating in this situation is very delicate. When whites come to Africa, they see poverty, malnutrition, a different pace of life and a different way of doing things. The first reaction is to help the population here to reach a level of comfort closer to ours. We expect their gratitude for everything given. But by doing so, we hurt their pride and feeling of self-worth. After one of these tourist groups had left eight little packages of pens on the table, one teacher sighed under his breath: ”We can buy pens ourselves for 25 cents. What we need are books and tables and chairs!”

But, we have a few success stories to tell!

school library

The library is cleaned up, newly stocked with books from “Books abroad”, Mr Ussi has had some assistance with an application to the British Council for a reciprocal visiting grant with a town in Wales, we wrapped subject books in brown paper to prolong their lives and we tutored during our free time students who showed interest to improve their English, Biology and French.

Fredi and I often reflected on how we could organize benches and tables for all classrooms of the school as the precise writing on knees in subjects such as geometry is almost impossible. One day, as we visited a shed where teacher Haji, whom we befriended  and are quite close to has his office. We discovered a huge cemetery of broken desks and benches.  The head teacher responded to our humble question if these benches could be repaired with a shrug of his shoulders.  After school, during the last week, we were able with the help of a few teachers, many students and the tools from Malou and Barbara to repair around 24 combinations of benches and tables made of sturdy, solid wood. Each combination can accommodate three students….this should provide additional  seating opportunities for 72 students come January 2012!!!

working together !

Yes, much is needed here. But, what we think is important to give, is not always what, in their eyes, is important to receive. A dialogue amongst well-meaning donors/NGOs, school leaders /teachers and hotel managers who have learned to trust each other, is imperative. Decision have to be made together in order to make sense to the school population here. With dialogue and validation a cooperative effort will have the greatest success. Fredi and I feel that we have started this process and hope it will be continued in the years to come.

extreme low tide on coral reef

Right now we are experiencing extreme low tides in the areas of Zanzibar. Fredi waded out with his camera and discovered a fantastic world revealed.

natures show piece

greytones are beautiful too...

seaweed, barely holding on

starfish modeling cushion fashion....

Especially the colorful starfish and swaying urchins are a most interesting sight.

this brightly red sea star captivates on the almost white sand

beware of the sea urchins...

Fauna in Zanzibar

Zanzibar, and particularly Nungwi only share one fact with Boston, they both border the ocean. Concerning flora and fauna, they are worlds apart.

As we have no window panes on our windows, we feel that we are totally  surrounded by nature and of course neighbors as well! A considerable herd of cows usually grazes around the school. Their physique is smaller and more muscular than the milk cow of the US or Switzerland. Between head and spine rises a muscular bump, which holds the yoke when one of these animals has to pull a wagon.

cows resting in the school yard

Quite often, in the middle of a school lesson, loud and continuous mooing of a cow calling her calf  interrupts the class. The other day I watched a little bull-play-fight during assembly!  The herd of goats announces itself through their calls. At first I mistook them for crying children. They walk around freely and eat whatever they find. Free roaming are also the chickens. They are slim and tall and the yellow of their egg is pale but quite tasty for a scrambled delight. The rooster calls vehemently at dawn, a short while after the Muezzin!

Dogs and cats are present but not as common as in our regions. Clearly, it is more important to provide food for your children rather than for pets. We have seen some hungry cats around  restaurants. I am sure they seek out philanthropic guests! Now, when it comes to our own “menagerie”, we spoil our adopted cat “Moussa” with daily milk and bread for breakfast and “Abra” and “Abressa”, our talking crows with some cookies or bread. The latter have a nest in the coconut tree next to Barbara’s house.

Local, wild, big animals are not really present on this island. In an earlier blog we had talked about the Red Colobus monkey with the long but stumpy tail. What we hear all day and night long are the sounds and songs of birds. Above all, the black and grey, rather big Indian crow is very common here. They seem to thrive very well on the organic garbage that the locals discard. Thinner cousins of our fluffy sparrows live here as well and love to bathe their feathers in the soft sand.  Either in the early morning or at dusk, we sometimes hear the melodious song of a black bird. Then there are the odd-looking, wild guinea hens. They always roam as pairs, have elegantly speckled, soft feathers, a rather round body, short red legs, a longish neck on which sits a disproportionately small head. They make a gentle sound like doves. If need to be, they can fly. Then, there are the bats we have never seen but hear frequently with their gurgling calls.

The Fauna of the ocean is not visible on the surface.  When we swim, we can make out Sea Stars and Sea Urchins. We are looking forward to the very low tide of the next full moon, when we expect to walk far out and see the beautifully colored Sea Stars, which Barbara had shown us on photos. The daily catch of tuna, barracuda, moray eels, reef sharks, red snapper, king fish, octopus and the occasional lobster and crabs are sold on the beach by fishermen. It is a display of the rich and important staple of the diet here.

local women fishing for Sardines

Daily, one can observe at the beach a group of women with round, shiny pans on their head, who wade in their clothes through the shallow water. With one fine, large net, they form a circle and thus catch schools of sardines. They carry the catch home in their pans and spread it out to dry in the sun. The sardines are then sold as popular snack to old and young.

The third group of animals on Zanzibar consists of the small world such as ants, spiders and snails. They are omnipresent and we make an effort to sweep the house daily to avoid an invasion.

spider near the house

Should we once forget to wash the dishes immediately, within five to ten minutes, hundreds of tiny little ants invades the sink and feed on fresh juice or tiny left overs. On the walls inside and outside of the house, there are many geckoes and salamanders. Some spiders are huge and span their nets over large areas if we let them. Caterpillars of all sorts creep and crawl around. In Jozani forest we saw huge and beautiful ones. Fortunately ours here are small but their secrete on our skin can be very painful. Therefore we examine the bed regularly before slipping under the sheets. Until now, we have neither set eye on a scorpion nor a snake. Apparently they appear in the middle of the African summer around January. Occasionally a small to large grasshopper strays into the house. Beautiful specimen of snails cling onto trees and walls in the garden. Of course there are the annoying flies in abundance. Tiny ticks and mosquitoes are our constant enemies. We take precautions with the weekly dose of Malaria antigen and sleep under a mosquito net.

The reader might want to know; that up until now, we feel very healthy and well, have never had intestinal problems and have not yet had a sunburn. Quite an achievement, no?

Secondary School in Nengwi

Today is Friday, the 4^th of November.  We have spent two whole weeks teaching a full schedule. Due to the fact that there are about 2000 students in this school, the elementary school uses the buildings in the morning from 7 am to 12:45pm and the secondary school with seventh to twelfth grade, use it from 1pm to 6pm. Every month, the routine changes. Thus, the secondary schedule was in the afternoon for October and now has changed to the morning in November. Each class is supposed to have 45-minute lessons, but with all our math skills, eight classes do not fit into this schedule. Punctuality cannot be applied here.

At the onset of each school day there is an assembly, either under the shade providing trees, or, in the morning, on the asphalted basketball court. By class, girls form a row and next to them, the boys do the same. Everybody wears a uniform. Boys, are dressed with shirt and blue pants, the girls wear a long blue dress and a cream-white, veil like cloak, which leaves the face free, but covers head and upper body to the waste.

Every beginning of a school day starts with a couple of the same songs. They are chanted more or less enthusiastically while there is a “non interpretable” coming and going of students. A few teachers walk around with sticks in their hands and look for order in the lines. Never, have I seen a teachers use the stick in any other way but clearly it is meant to demand respect. During the chanting of the traditional school songs, a few students of each class broom clean their classroom and surroundings of the school. Once the head teacher has given his usual speech, the school day can officially start.

clean-up crew at work

By now, most teachers have arrived with or without books. Most people walk to school. The first few weeks we were ignored and given the cold shoulder. After all, we are the first wazungus (white teachers) in this school and who are we to interrupt the routine? Some asked us why we are here and why we would want to teach here. Our answer was simple:” We want to learn from you and help out when other teachers can not be here”.

A year ago, when MaishaZanzibar had made the suggestion to send secondary school teachers to Nungwi, the head teacher had agreed to welcome teachers to teach for three months at his school. As it is the African way: you agree so you do not have to disagree and then see how things develop. I am pretty convinced that Mr. Ussi never thought that any teachers would come from afar to teach for free at his school. At first, we requested to observe classes and a few teachers let us sit in and watch. I admired their courage. Why?  Just imagine this rural school. Their mother tong is Swahili. Subjects taught are: Math, Geography, Biology, Chemistry, Physics, Swahili and Religious Studies. All but the last two are taught in English by native Tanzanians, who have never left the country, some not even Zanzibar. I am amazed of how they cope. Some of them fall back into Swahili all the time, others summarize in English and some conduct the lesson in a mixture of Swahili English. Mr. Haji Bakari is one of them. He is an experience teacher, has an outgoing way of teaching and a quirky humor.

schedule class 9 A

Well, by the time our permits from the Tanzanian Ministry of Education arrived, we were immediately handed a book and told: ”Now teach!” I swallowed twice, turned heels and went to grade 9 to class A with 37 students, then B with 42 students. Both of these classes have rudimentary school benches and tables in the classroom. Each student has an English book. We were in business! The initial shyness of the students was almost painful to watch. I tried to be firm, respectful and let them know that they all could succeed to learn English if they worked hard. Two and a half weeks later, I have almost full participation, everyone hands in HW and we have fun together learning.

Right from the onset of our arrival in Zanzibar, our intention was to make the best of our time here. When we waited to teach, Fredi offered extra help in Biology and I in English to 10^th and 11^th graders. They have to take an exam at the end of November. First, a couple of students came to the house and we worked a solid two hours every day. By now, we are back in classrooms, because the numbers have grown. The students have made great progress and they work hard to prepare themselves. The motivation is impressive. If they fail this exam, their school career is over!  The majority of people we ask have seven years of education. Our students will have 11 years and only very few will climb the ladder to academic studies. Those who do not pass, learn a trade by working in a shop or with a professional, until they know enough to go out on their own.

Maps of Africa, Tanzania and Zanzibar

overall view of Africa. Zanzibar is an island north east of Dar-Es-Salam and is part of Tanzania.

The archipelago of Zanzibar. We live at the most northern tip of the island Unguja.We are about 60 km north of Zanzibar town and the the old city: Stone Town.

Nungwi, a town of contrasts

Waiting for our work permits allows us to explore Nungwi, the town we live in. We live on the West side of town, right next to the village and school. We talked already about the white sand of the beaches, the fishing boats and community. Oh, that reminds me to mention that when high tide occurs, most or all garbage disappears miraculously. Then our walks are a true pleasure!

All right, the other day, we walked east through town on the Main street, past the bus station where all the dalla-dallas (buses) wait, (we still have to take one of them) and exited town a half a mile south. We passed little huts with shops of carpenters, the hairdresser, shoe makers, the “cristal white laundry” place and turned further into another road. If the sign had not said “Sazani” you could have thought that this road was going to lead into the pure no-where. High bushes, small trees and the occasional wall lined the dusty road made of small pieces of coral rocks. It is astonishing, that this road is in much better shape than the main street of Nungwi! Once we passed a nice looking estate fit for a picture book! A “for rent” sign hung on the gate.

a house "for rent" in the boonies

On we trotted for about half an hour, in the burning afternoon sun, dusty and hot, wondering and hoping that our toes would behave in the flip-flops we wear every day. From afar I spotted the turquoise sea and some Makuti roofs. We arrived at a stately looking gate, took a peek and a guard appeared. It turns out that this was the first of several hotels lining the east coast. We were granted permission to enter the RAS NUNGWI hotel and signed in with the friendly desk person. She was game for a little Swahili but I got stuck quickly and she changed to English with a smile. We entered a dream world of lush gardens, small walkways, a good-size pool and left and right sweet looking bungalows. The restaurant and bar open up to the roaring ocean…all in all a place fit to accommodate guests with high standards. The coast here has little beach to offer but a coral reef elevates the land 2-3 meters above the sea. The tide was high at the hour of our visit and the foamy waves came dashing in. We contemplated a drink but decided to leave this dreamy place and continue our investigatory walk. Hotel after hotel followed. We decided to have a refreshing juice at the bar of the Sazani, right overlooking the thundering ocean. Such moments are very precious to us. We regained energy and calming peace in this new world of ours.

We continued our walk and eventually arrived at the Zalu hotel, which had just recently opened.

Zalu from the sea

Five stars decorate the entrance gate and the view from the outside is most impressively beautiful. Once again, we asked permission to enter, upon which a young man in Arabic looking, emerald green uniform and kofia approached us and acted immediately as our guide. He was very welcoming, extremely polite and informed us about this hotel in a flow of English that could have been a recording.  When we interrupted him with a question, he answered with difficulties and frowns on his forehead. But, as he regained composure and the previous thread, his speech flowed again and his smile returned. The luxury of this hotel is overwhelming. Three, exceptionally high, staggered palm leaf roofs protect the large lobby and the four restaurants. A stately gallery and shops bring the local art and fashion to the rich and famous. As you look out towards the ocean, three swimming pools follow, each with islands and beach beds, the water of each pool is the green blue of the ocean. At various corners, large hammocks invite the guests for a leisurely swing in the breeze.

Zalu, flawless pool to ocean view

Guards act as guides as well as protection.  A long boardwalk leads out to a restaurant and bar. You have nothing but the sea around you…a most privileged spot on earth. We were overwhelmed by the beauty and decided to order from the barman Alfred (!) another drink. Cushioned sofas and beach chairs invite to savor this pristine atmosphere. As we were leaving the Zalu, we inquired about a prospectus and read the name of the manager. In French a voice said” I hear my name, who is this?” A young, dashing man appeared to shake hands and have a little chat. He is from France and invited us to lunch or dine at this magical place.  The shareholders are Italian and by prices per night per person of $400 and up, it is highly unlikely that we ever shall have the pleasure to reside here. Who knows, if our budget will includes a farewell dinner here!

As we exit, we enter the real world of Nungwi once again.

A short walk west and we are in the midst of the village, the bumpy, potholed road, the little vegetable stores, our bakery, children who go bare foot in dusty clothes, empty canister that await the water truck from afar and the fisherman on his bike, sounding his bell to alert the arrival of fresh fish. Most houses have mud floors; the chickens (slim) and goats (very slim) roam freely and are kept near or in the houses. The cows are grazing near bye.

West and east of Nungwi share much but are also contrasting extremes. We continue to observe, learn and absorb from this very special place in Africa.